He quotes Lady Macbeth in his notes: “Look like th’ innocent flower, But be the serpent under ‘t.” And it all starts to makes sense when you see the New York-based designer’s line-up of lush velvets, sharp tailoring, and seductively opulent dresses for Fall ’17 – delivered not as a means to escape, but as an art to inspire.
You can watch the whole show here:
Here's what the fashion heavyweights are saying about this line:
Altuzarra on Altuzarra
It’s not every day that you can settle down and pick a designer’s brains. Luckily, Altuzarra decided to talk us through exactly what was running through his mind.
Robin Givhan is so over sweatshirts
“At a time when so many big brands are rushing to design the best pair of sweatpants or the most self-consciously banal sweatshirt, it’s almost jarring to see clothes with such lavish attention to details. These clothes are confidently special, yet still relevant. Precious but not untouchable.”
Read more on Washingtonpost.com
Suzy Menkes is enchanted by the mix of past and present
“Altuzarra's balancing act between past, present and future was achieved by taking dresses in lush velvets and embossed or embellished fabrics and pitting them against hefty boots on models who stomped out as if warriors for women's power. It made for a strange combo, sometimes seeming too aggressive for the clothes.
Yet this plunge into the border of the Mediaeval and Renaissance eras could be startlingly beautiful: a tailored coat with embroidered frogging, or a pinafore dress worn over a diamond patterned sweater and, at the waist, a criss-cross decoration seen in ancient paintings - and frequently on this runway.”
Read more on Vogue.co.uk
Amelia Diamond wants you to step out of your comfort zone
“The casual clothes we’ve long chosen for practicality’s sake have become defense mechanisms rather than peaceful weapons against obstacles. There is comfort — jeans and a tee, athletic leggings, sneakers — and there is a place for it. There is also a time for bravado, and that time is now. Altuzarra’s Fall 2017 showing was a collection of clothes that carry weight with as much strength as the wearer.”
Read more on Manrepeller.com
Tim Blanks is intrigued by the dissonance
The “emotion bursting through the cracks," in Joseph Altuzarra's collection left a lingering, haunting aftertaste.
Read more on Businessoffashion.com
Bridget Foley applauds the badasses
“Contrary to the Lady’s counsel, Altuzarra’s women seldom feign innocence: certainly not here, in a dazzling display that had the high style and subliminal badass-ness of epic TV. Transport “The Tudors” to the here-and-now, and Altuzarra’s ladies could storm the screen. There’s a word for that kind of gripping sartorial storytelling. It’s. Fashion.”
Read more on Wwd.com
Altuzarra Fall-Winter '17 is available at Le Mill